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Why the long board is chairman of the board

A Surfer for President? Why the Long board is Chairman of the Board

Image- Recording artist Corky Carroll “Surfer for President”

What were long boards called  before the revolution of  shortboards sparked up in the 50’s & 60’s?…

 Hey guys today I am answering that and:

  • Why should I learn to surf on a longboard?
  • Why do surf schools act like the longboard is the chairman of the board?
  • Long board chairman

These days there are so many different types of surfboards. We have laser cut, light weight, durable, maneuverable, wafer-thin, easy to carry, short surfboards. Boards are being made with space aged materials developed by NASA scientists that have devoted their lives to making pans.(story for another day)

So why do we still use long boards to teach surfing with so many different board types to choose from? It can be confusing trying to figure out what kind of board to use when beginning surfing. This should make things a little easier for you.

There are many reasons why beginning with the long board is the best and easiest way to ensure you have the most fun and safe time building a solid foundation on your way to surfing your little guts out. Learning to surf should be fun. The surfboard you choose to plant your fun-damental roots with is important.

 In this video Corky makes it look like dancing Surfing is a way to express your joy and style through sweet moves to a rhythm.

Instead of moving to the beat of the drums we move with the rhythm of the ocean. The oceans act as our universal dance conductor. Our beautiful waves are the music and our board becomes our partner. Using a longboard is a great way to express personal style.When learning how to dance it would make sense to learn on a solid dance floor, right? The process of becoming in touch with your mind body connection and working out the movements you want to use to express your funky, funky, joy. Would be much easier, and in turn, much more fun on a solid platform rather than a tight rope…

That might sound like an extreme comparison. So is learning to surf on a short board compared to the huge advantages of rooting your surfing fundamentals on a nice stable foundation like a longboard. At least at first…

Long board

Quick Advantages to rooting with a longboard:

  • Paddling is much easier than on a short board.
  • A long board allows you to catch a wave earlier and more easily. Being at the front of the line-up gives you the most opportunity to catch waves in the first come first served style lineups of today.
  • Easier to sit on (which can be tricky) long boards are more stable.
  • The extra stability of a long board allows for the long take offs that beginners might experience so you catch more waves and have more time to get to your feet.
  • Smooth ride. The big boards are not as susceptible to choppy water conditions and can feel like gliding on air.

Priority in the lineup for a long boarder is like a fast pass to your favorite attraction. In the line-up long boards are chairman of the board.

Quick advantages of surfing with a longboard at Bolsa Chica or Playa Guiones:

  • Both Bolsa Chica and Playa Guiones are consistent with longboard friendly and long board advantageous conditions.
  • Each spot is known to break with nice even workable waves that do not “pitch” or “throw” hard.
  • The surf is generally fun and consistent year round.

 

In Line-ups around the globe, longboards are the royalty of the surf.

 The royal roots of surfing

 According to ancient Pacific Island lore. One legend tells us that back in the day, same as today, life on the Islands was intertwined and dependent upon the ocean.Being an accomplished waterman in the village was a very respected skill. Often the best watermen in the village were considered chiefs and treated like royalty. These watermen chiefs were known as Kahuna. The oceans meant everything to the people and their survival. Being able to navigate the ocean and feed a village was a big deal.

So how does this relate to surfing?

This is the root of surfing.

Legend has that a particularly stormy season was taking it’s toll on a Pacific Island village. The storms wiped out their crops. The village needed fish. Their Kahuna was the best waterman in the village. Following his heart and his instincts the Kahuna went out fishing in the stormy ocean.. He would brave the ocean storms to feed the village.Knowing it might mean the end of his life. The Kahuna was willing to risk everything for the wellbeing of the people he called family. That type of spirit is what made him royalty in his village.The Kahuna set out in his one man boat to harvest the oceans bounty. As he pulled fish after fish into his boat the pounding of the ocean began taking its toll.

The sides of the boat began leaking. The Kahuna’s boat began taking on water. Knowing that if the boat sinks, he could lose his catch, his boat, and possibly his life.The Kahuna acted swiftly and purposefully.Instead of giving up and sinking into the ocean. The Kahuna began to do something unexpected.

The Kahuna tapped into his heart and instincts. He strung his catch together and began to break his boat apart even more. Completely removing the hull walls of the boat leaving only the bottom.  The bottom of the boat was buoyant enough to float. He started paddling making his way back toward shore. The closer to shore the Kahuna got the happier his heart became. The Kahuna became so overjoyed to see the faces of his family waiting for him on the beach that he stood up and began riding the waves into the shore like a champion of life. This is part of the magic of the Kahuna. His boat became the first surfboard. The Kahuna became the first surfer.

Instead of giving up. The Kahuna followed his heart and his instincts. He fed the village and surfing was born. Truly Royal in life, love, spirit.As the ancient Kahuna would tell you. The longboard has strong roots for a good surfing foundation. Learning to surf and navigate the ocean on a long board  is the key to years of surfing joy.

Whether you call it a boat, a log, or a surfboard. The longboard will always be the OG root of surfing. The “chairman of the boards.”

Answer to today’s question: The original “surfboards” 🙂 were  originally named based off of the specific wood and shape used to make the board. Some boards were exclusively reserved for use by Hawaiian royalty.  The penalty was deaaaaaath if ridden by non royal kooks. 

Long board chairman

Check out these spots for the hot board history info:

“revolution of short boards in the 60’s.’’ -surfer today

International Surfing Museum Huntington Beach, CA

Surfing Heritage and Culture Center in San Clemente, CA

Written by Chris Benton “The Blog Master”

Wave Pool vs Real Ocean Surfing

Will the New High Tech Wave Theaters Change Surfing?

 “Arizona?!” -Corky Carroll from the movie “The North Shore” 1987
In that one-word response to a pro surfer from a wave tank in AZ, Corky captured it all

Kelly Slater Wave Co is working on opening his fully green, solar powered, programmable techno-wave ranch to the public ???? Soon. Somewhere in central CA.

“We appear to be watching the ocean..”- Rick Caine. 

Can the new high tech wave theaters compete with our oceans?

Will they change the face of surfing?

When I look at footage of the manmade NLand surf park in Austin Texas and Kelly Slater Wave Co’s version of machined waves via YouTube. I gaze at the screen with my jaw gapped and mouthwatering over seemingly endless tasty waves.

The new spots seem like perfect fun but I can’t help but notice how something is missing…

Lines from the movie “The North Shore” come barreling into my head. Here is why.

That epic slice of 80’s cinema, and one liner heaven, is a statement from 1987 about exactly what I am looking at today. Surfing in a controlled synthetic environment and how that compares to surfing in the ocean.

wave pool vs real ocean surfing kelly slater

Tanks are a great way to bring surfing to spots that do not have surf

“The North Shore” movie is about a surfer from Arizona. Rick wins the Arizona state surf championship at his local wave tank. Instead of buying tacos with his winnings and staying home, Rick slides that wad to his travel agent, and follows his dream of surfing the big waves of the North Shore of Hawaii. Right there, that, should tell you something.

-The wave park champ can’t wait to get out of the wave park and actually surf the breaks of his dreams.

OK that was 1987′ and Rick’s wave park was literally a pool. It represents the antiquated idea of a wave tank.

Modern wave pool technology

Flash forward to today. The combination of research, engineering and technology have allowed for dramatic change in the performance of wave pool capabilities.

  • NLand is in Texas, which I know is different than Arizona, but I think we can all agree that ya don’t think of surfers or surf spots when I mention Arizona or Texas. Cowboys and deserts yes, Surfers? No.
  • Austin is a great spot for a wave tank competition if you have the whole thing to yourself.
    However, because you are in a smaller space the waves seem a little crowded.
  • In order to keep secondary back wash and inner pool turbulence to a minimum the wave generation has to be somewhat infrequent. So not a lot of waves, looks like 10-12 waves per hour in choppy conditions.
  • The session ends and everyone is asked to leave the water.

Problem with the wave pool idea especially for beginners is the limited time you get to spend in the water. Compared to the time you get to spend in the ocean it isn’t even close. When your session is over at the surf park, it’s over.

For beginners the new parks can help you learn what it might be like to surf and give you a fundamental foundation for getting up and riding your first waves. You catch it. You ride it. That’s surfing right?  You can work on skills and rest assured there will be waves. Seems safe and fun but short lived.

The waves look awesome for intermediate to advanced surf enthusiasts that have a dream to one day go to a manmade break and pay per hour to ride.

I could see Olympic surfing truly happen now which would be great for surfing.

“I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.” – Kelly Slater

Best wave pool option out there

Kelly Slater Wave Co did the right thing! Kelly has gone all green energy and fully programmable. Dial up any wave from anywhere in the world and his machine will produce unreal epic replications of waves. The waves are long and shreddable.

  • He is using only solar energy.
  • For perfect conditions, the glassy conditions you dream of, his smaller pool can generate and handle 4 “perfect” waves per hour.
  • Great for more tank contests and promoting green energy, awesome!

 “Eskimos have several hundred words for snow. Well, Hawaiians have just as many words to describe waves and ocean conditions.” -Chandler

 

The wave pool has two words to describe its conditions: on and off

For an advanced surfer with dreams of a certain break like pipeline or somewhere in Costa Rica a wave pool like Slaters Wave Co is totally programmable. It can provide a simulated experience and is a great way to have a guaranteed perfect wave.  You can practice what it could be like to actually be there.

Only problem with that for our bucket listers is you can’t say that you have surfed a break unless you have been there and surfed it.

You can’t dial up a wave and tell everyone at home you just surfed the pier in Huntington Beach a.k.a. Surf City USA like they do at the US Open event that is held there every year.

All the visceral knowledge of and about ocean conditions or why we should care for our oceans is lost in a wave tank. Anyway way you look at it, there is no ocean at a wave tank. Once you leave you may not find yourself surrounded by a richly rooted surf community based in surfing heritage and spirit.

“The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.” – Laird Hamilton  

 kelly slater wave pool

What are your roots?

Corky Carrolls surf schools are rooted into two epic surf spots and are submerged in surf culture: Bolsa Chica State Beach, Huntington Beach, CA and Playa Guiones, Nosara, Costa Rica

  • Huntington Beach
  • Huntington Beach Pier
  • Dukes
  • Jack’s Surfboards

Why did the original pioneer of professional surfing Corky Carroll put his surf school at Bolsa Chica?

Just like in gardening, for surfing, where you plant your surfing roots is important for you and your sprouting grommets. In gardening the seed sprouts roots into the Earth to connect with it for nutrition. In surfing our dreams are the seeds that we connect with our lives. We are planting our surfing roots and connecting our dreams into our life. Surfing becomes the root source of living a dream. We truly grow because of it.

The overall connective experience that people are looking for when beginning their surfing adventures and planting their surfing roots can only be found by being submerged in the oceans and the surrounding communities. You are planting your surfing roots and your life grows because of it physically, mentally, spiritually.

You remember your first wave. You remember the people you meet. It all becomes a part of you and your personal surfing journey.

Bolsa Chica translates to “Little Pockets.” I like to say Little Pockets runs deep in surfing roots, heritage, and history.

Bolsa Chica State beach has a sweetness to it.  Perfect for beginners, campers, families and journeymen alike.

bolsa chica

  • *It’s protected, smooth, flat beaches are the beneficiary of California weather. It doesn’t suffer from lack of waves being consistent with swell from any direction.
  • *Talk about legendary surf roots and community: Not only was Corky Carroll the first professional surfer, Corky helped pioneer another surf staple. Just up the road is Kasnvas By Katin where he helped with the designs for the original pair of board shorts.
  • *When your lesson for the day is over at the beach. The ocean is still open. The ocean doesn’t black ball you after your hour is up.

Bolsa Chica has less black ball issue hours than most breaks local to Huntington Beach

Encounters with the local dolphins happen almost daily at Bolsa Chica and other surrounding breaks. In Costa Rica Howler Monkeys and animals of all kinds are always around.

Connecting with Mother Nature and connecting with animals in a shared environment does something to our perspective. It can be life changing, and life enhancing.

Something resonates with the soul when you are surrounded by Mother Nature’s vast epi-scapes like “the Cliffs”@ Huntington Beach, the wetlands @ Bolsa Chica State Beach, or the sugary beaches of Costa Rica. The soul connection to the ocean’s power and beauty cannot be found in a manmade pool. A wave pool just can’t beat the life enhancing challenges and bond building experiences that the ocean can present. Our oceans are priceless.

When a surfer talks about choosing his line, he is talking about something unique that is within each wave and each person. Surfing in the ocean is another way to tap into your overall sensory awareness, learn something about yourself, and express it creatively.

I love pools but they are not alive like the ocean

Ricks roots did not change because he went to surf in Hawaii. He struggled to take his surfing into the ocean. His surfing roots were still in Arizona. Then he connected more dream roots when he combined his dreams with his reality. He was the champion of a park and his ultimate dream was to surf for real. That should tell you something about the difference between manmade wave parks and the real natural deal. That will not change, I still think Corky said it best -“Arizona?!”

Looking at the new wave theaters I can’t help but notice how something is missing.

So where do you go to practice and learn how to surf?

The path you choose is up to you.