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Nothing Says I Love You Like the Gift of a Foam Top for Valentine’s Day

Is it OK to let your homie ride a foam top?

Simply put… Yes Ride The Foam Top!

Hey guys, today I am focusing on the formerly taboo topic of soft top foam surf boards or “foamies.” Surf culture can be a bit particular as to what qualifies as a surfboard in the local lineup. If you are just starting out surfing. You are going to be new in any lineup, right? If  you paddle out on something that has not been accepted into the quiver of options for serious surfers, it will get labeled as “kooky” and so will you… Woe! Kooky? Not cool that sucks. Why does that happen?

The lineup can be dangerous if you are not familiar with proper surf etiquette. Wipeouts, injuries, even worse …board dings, can happen quickly. That is the reason surfers can be quick to label something in the water as kooky. It is not personal. It is the law of the ocean. Safety first.

If you are wondering about foam top surf boards and whether they are cool or not I am here to officially  proclaim them “totally cool”. As a matter of fact I think by now most surfers have a “foamy” in their quiver. They are notoriously fun. They are safe and more ding resistant than traditional boards. Catching waves wth them is easy–peasy lemon squeezy. Foam top boards are now  widely accepted and used  as real surfboards. The boards work so well they are available for use at the school.

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Corky Carroll’s Surf School- Playa Guiones- Nosara, Costa Rica

Quick reasons foam top boards are an option at the school:

  • More safe in the surf for the rider and other swimmers
  • Proven factory molds for successful wave catching and performance
  • Buoyant and stable translates to catching more waves
  • Great for beginners, care for the boards is easy. Not as much ding repair

The boards we use:

This long board has three “Marine Ply Stringers” and is just waiting for you to put your toes on it’s nose this Valentines. The top skin is comfy and the bottom is slick.

Foam Top Soft Top Stormblade

Smaller in scale but not performance. This lil board includes: a wood double stringer, fully plushy rails, fiberglass wrapped foam core with a slick bottom. Wide and buoyant this board will help you catch a lot of waves. This model is a smaller scale board.

Boardworks

I know so many surfers that resort to their soft tops for “fun” that I wonder why they ever use their “performance” boards. So if you were wondering what to get your Valentine this year. Try giving your honey a “foamy” soft top  surfboard. They will have so much fun with it. They won’t look at you cross eyed, except in surf-fire ecstasy. Guaranteed  you will forever be their #1 Valentines Day Foamy-Homie. So, go ahead, take the plunge, score a foamy and fall in love this Valentine’s.

Want more info on foamy boards? Read our guide on why every surfer should own a soft top surfobard.

Thanks for reading guys! Let’s stay connected. Send a comment. Maybe even hit the like button. We appreciate it mucho!

As always hang loose, have fun out there, stay safe and don’t forget to remind yourself that something great is going to happen today.

 

A Surfer for President? Why the Long board is Chairman of the Board

Image- Recording artist Corky Carroll “Surfer for President”

What were long boards called  before the revolution of  shortboards sparked up in the 50’s & 60’s?…

 Hey guys today I am answering that and:

  • Why should I learn to surf on a longboard?
  • Why do surf schools act like the longboard is the chairman of the board?
  • Long board chairman

These days there are so many different types of surfboards. We have laser cut, light weight, durable, maneuverable, wafer-thin, easy to carry, short surfboards. Boards are being made with space aged materials developed by NASA scientists that have devoted their lives to making pans.(story for another day)

So why do we still use long boards to teach surfing with so many different board types to choose from? It can be confusing trying to figure out what kind of board to use when beginning surfing. This should make things a little easier for you.

There are many reasons why beginning with the long board is the best and easiest way to ensure you have the most fun and safe time building a solid foundation on your way to surfing your little guts out. Learning to surf should be fun. The surfboard you choose to plant your fun-damental roots with is important.

 In this video Corky makes it look like dancing Surfing is a way to express your joy and style through sweet moves to a rhythm.

Instead of moving to the beat of the drums we move with the rhythm of the ocean. The oceans act as our universal dance conductor. Our beautiful waves are the music and our board becomes our partner. Using a longboard is a great way to express personal style.When learning how to dance it would make sense to learn on a solid dance floor, right? The process of becoming in touch with your mind body connection and working out the movements you want to use to express your funky, funky, joy. Would be much easier, and in turn, much more fun on a solid platform rather than a tight rope…

That might sound like an extreme comparison. So is learning to surf on a short board compared to the huge advantages of rooting your surfing fundamentals on a nice stable foundation like a longboard. At least at first…

Long board

Quick Advantages to rooting with a longboard:

  • Paddling is much easier than on a short board.
  • A long board allows you to catch a wave earlier and more easily. Being at the front of the line-up gives you the most opportunity to catch waves in the first come first served style lineups of today.
  • Easier to sit on (which can be tricky) long boards are more stable.
  • The extra stability of a long board allows for the long take offs that beginners might experience so you catch more waves and have more time to get to your feet.
  • Smooth ride. The big boards are not as susceptible to choppy water conditions and can feel like gliding on air.

Priority in the lineup for a long boarder is like a fast pass to your favorite attraction. In the line-up long boards are chairman of the board.

Quick advantages of surfing with a longboard at Bolsa Chica or Playa Guiones:

  • Both Bolsa Chica and Playa Guiones are consistent with longboard friendly and long board advantageous conditions.
  • Each spot is known to break with nice even workable waves that do not “pitch” or “throw” hard.
  • The surf is generally fun and consistent year round.

 

In Line-ups around the globe, longboards are the royalty of the surf.

 The royal roots of surfing

 According to ancient Pacific Island lore. One legend tells us that back in the day, same as today, life on the Islands was intertwined and dependent upon the ocean.Being an accomplished waterman in the village was a very respected skill. Often the best watermen in the village were considered chiefs and treated like royalty. These watermen chiefs were known as Kahuna. The oceans meant everything to the people and their survival. Being able to navigate the ocean and feed a village was a big deal.

So how does this relate to surfing?

This is the root of surfing.

Legend has that a particularly stormy season was taking it’s toll on a Pacific Island village. The storms wiped out their crops. The village needed fish. Their Kahuna was the best waterman in the village. Following his heart and his instincts the Kahuna went out fishing in the stormy ocean.. He would brave the ocean storms to feed the village.Knowing it might mean the end of his life. The Kahuna was willing to risk everything for the wellbeing of the people he called family. That type of spirit is what made him royalty in his village.The Kahuna set out in his one man boat to harvest the oceans bounty. As he pulled fish after fish into his boat the pounding of the ocean began taking its toll.

The sides of the boat began leaking. The Kahuna’s boat began taking on water. Knowing that if the boat sinks, he could lose his catch, his boat, and possibly his life.The Kahuna acted swiftly and purposefully.Instead of giving up and sinking into the ocean. The Kahuna began to do something unexpected.

The Kahuna tapped into his heart and instincts. He strung his catch together and began to break his boat apart even more. Completely removing the hull walls of the boat leaving only the bottom.  The bottom of the boat was buoyant enough to float. He started paddling making his way back toward shore. The closer to shore the Kahuna got the happier his heart became. The Kahuna became so overjoyed to see the faces of his family waiting for him on the beach that he stood up and began riding the waves into the shore like a champion of life. This is part of the magic of the Kahuna. His boat became the first surfboard. The Kahuna became the first surfer.

Instead of giving up. The Kahuna followed his heart and his instincts. He fed the village and surfing was born. Truly Royal in life, love, spirit.As the ancient Kahuna would tell you. The longboard has strong roots for a good surfing foundation. Learning to surf and navigate the ocean on a long board  is the key to years of surfing joy.

Whether you call it a boat, a log, or a surfboard. The longboard will always be the OG root of surfing. The “chairman of the boards.”

Answer to today’s question: The original “surfboards” 🙂 were  originally named based off of the specific wood and shape used to make the board. Some boards were exclusively reserved for use by Hawaiian royalty.  The penalty was deaaaaaath if ridden by non royal kooks. 

Long board chairman

Check out these spots for the hot board history info:

“revolution of short boards in the 60’s.’’ -surfer today

International Surfing Museum Huntington Beach, CA

Surfing Heritage and Culture Center in San Clemente, CA

Written by Chris Benton “The Blog Master”

Because the ocean is part of nature, you should always have a keen awareness of your surroundings: currents may make you drift north or southward; riptides can pull you out deeper into the ocean. But with time and practice, you will know for which waves to paddle and from which conditions to stay away. Follow these seven steps in learning how to surf and you will soon be on your way in becoming the best surfer you can be through respect for the ocean and self.

Step 1. Choose the best board for you.

The best board from which to choose does not mean selecting the most expensive board; it does not mean selecting a big brand board; it does not mean selecting a colorful, artistic board. You want to make sure that the height and width are suitable to your skills.

When you are confident to purchase your own surfboard, keep these considerations in mind. But start with a soft top longboard when learning how to surf.

Step 2. Wetsuit, wax, leash, and sunscreen.

Other than a necessary surfboard, you will also need these other surf essentials. Rarely is it warm enough to surf in a bikini or trunks year round. Wear an appropriate wetsuit according to the water’s temperature. Typically, you can get away without a wetsuit in the summer time, or wear a spring suit. In the fall and spring, a 3.2 mm wetsuit is advised. And during the winter season, at least a 4.3mm wetsuit is recommended.

It is nearly impossible to surf without waxing your board. Make sure to wax the areas of your surfboard that your body needs to stick to. For instance: where your feet are placed or where your chest lies when paddling and the rails.

You want to wear a leash around your ankle in order to have more control over your board. For example, if you let go of your board when a wave crashes on you, the leash will prevent the board from washing ashore. Just before you enter the water, securely fasten the leash on your ankle of the back foot. When you learn how to pop up, you will discover which foot goes in the back.
Lips, nose and ears are the most sensitive areas of your face that are exposed to the sun because they are raised. Make sure to apply sunscreen all over, but especially those features.

Step 3. Paddle, Paddle, Paddle.

Surfing consists of paddling more so than riding a wave. Paddling can take a lot of energy until you make it to lineup. It is vital that you use only the amount of energy necessary when paddling. The only movement should be in your arms- not your legs or hips. Make sure that your hands are cupped and fingers closed without any space in between. Arch your back and keep your feet together in order for agile mobility. Locate the board’s stringer, which is typically a wooden line that stretches from the nose to the board’s tail. Align your nose with the stringer to balance yourself on the center of the board.

If a small wave breaks in front of you, go “up and over.” Simply place your hands below your chest as if you were performing a pushup. Only lift your chest and keep your legs on the board. If the wave is too big to complete an “up and over,” then do a “turtle roll.” Roll over either to the right or left side of your board. You will be upside down, facing the sky, underwater for a couple seconds. Hold a tight grip on the rails and rest underneath your board until the wave passes. Flip back over and keep paddling until you reach the lineup.

Step 4. Sit on your board.

Once you have made it to the outside, you can sit on your board. Start with a push up position and swing both legs on each side of the board. Your butt will naturally sit on the board, but make sure it is sitting on the center of the board so you do not tip over. When you see a wave you like, add weight to the tail and turn your body. This way, you will turn around quickly toward the shore.

Step 5. Catch the wave and pop up.

In order to catch a wave, you must paddle for it. If you notice the board is nosediving, then scoot back on the board- too much weight is near the nose. If you are paddling as hard as you can and still cannot catch the wave, then scoot forward on the board. In this case, you would need a little more weight toward the nose. The perfect place to locate your body when catching a wave is called the waterline. The waterline is where the water crosses over you board. Your upper chest should remain below this water line.

Once you are in motion with the wave, pop up to your feet. Place your hands below your chest to a mini push up. Then, drag your front foot forward and keep your back foot behind your front foot. Place your feet in the center of the board along the stringer, but stay low with bent knees to help stabilize yourself. Remember to keep enough space between your feet for more balance. Angle your front foot toward shore and pivot your back foot left or right, depending on your stance. You will either have a goofy or regular stance. If your right foot in forward, then your surf stance is goofy. If your left foot is forward, then your stance is regular.

Do not delay popping up, because you will feel comfortable lying down. But also do not pop up too quickly in the event you have not fully caught the wave. Never go to your knees before standing up. You may think it will help you get to your feet, but it will only get you stuck in that position; it is a hard habit to break.

Step 6. A graceful wipeout.

It is inevitable that you will wipeout- even the professionals will fall down. When you lose your balance and plunge in the water, wrap your arms around your head and face. Protect those areas from the moment you fall to when you surface. Try not to fall in front of your board. Rather, fall to the left or right side. In these circumstances, the board is susceptible to hitting you. The ocean is a wild environment, so safety should always come first.

Step 7. Know how to get out of the water.

Just as you would when entering the ocean, shuffle your feet along the sand to avoid getting stung by a stingray. Never stomp your feet while in the water. You can either catch a wave all the way to shore or paddle in. If you do ride a wave in, be aware of your fins- you would not want to have them loosened by getting stuck in the sand. If you paddle in, do not fix your gaze on the beach. Keep looking back at the horizon. You never want to fully have your back turned against the waves unless you are surfing.

Take your leash off and wrap it around the board when you are on dry sand. If you try to do this in the shore break, the board will possibly hit you on the head.

We hope reading these steps have made you more confident in learning how to surf. Surf camps and lessons are helpful in getting the hang of it, but you are ultimately your best instructor. Don’t stop surfing after camp- keep it up! Surf with friends that are either at your level or better; you can always learn from others. When the waves are bad, watch professional surf videos and memorize the way they surf. If you want to become a great surfer, be patient, humble and determined. And no matter the progression of your surf skills, keep the stoke alive.