A Surfer for President? Why the Long board is Chairman of the Board

Image- Recording artist Corky Carroll “Surfer for President”

What were long boards called  before the revolution of  shortboards sparked up in the 50’s & 60’s?…

 Hey guys today I am answering that and:

  • Why should I learn to surf on a longboard?
  • Why do surf schools act like the longboard is the chairman of the board?
  • Long board chairman

These days there are so many different types of surfboards. We have laser cut, light weight, durable, maneuverable, wafer-thin, easy to carry, short surfboards. Boards are being made with space aged materials developed by NASA scientists that have devoted their lives to making pans.(story for another day)

So why do we still use long boards to teach surfing with so many different board types to choose from? It can be confusing trying to figure out what kind of board to use when beginning surfing. This should make things a little easier for you.

There are many reasons why beginning with the long board is the best and easiest way to ensure you have the most fun and safe time building a solid foundation on your way to surfing your little guts out. Learning to surf should be fun. The surfboard you choose to plant your fun-damental roots with is important.

 In this video Corky makes it look like dancing Surfing is a way to express your joy and style through sweet moves to a rhythm.

Instead of moving to the beat of the drums we move with the rhythm of the ocean. The oceans act as our universal dance conductor. Our beautiful waves are the music and our board becomes our partner. Using a longboard is a great way to express personal style.When learning how to dance it would make sense to learn on a solid dance floor, right? The process of becoming in touch with your mind body connection and working out the movements you want to use to express your funky, funky, joy. Would be much easier, and in turn, much more fun on a solid platform rather than a tight rope…

That might sound like an extreme comparison. So is learning to surf on a short board compared to the huge advantages of rooting your surfing fundamentals on a nice stable foundation like a longboard. At least at first…

Long board

Quick Advantages to rooting with a longboard:

  • Paddling is much easier than on a short board.
  • A long board allows you to catch a wave earlier and more easily. Being at the front of the line-up gives you the most opportunity to catch waves in the first come first served style lineups of today.
  • Easier to sit on (which can be tricky) long boards are more stable.
  • The extra stability of a long board allows for the long take offs that beginners might experience so you catch more waves and have more time to get to your feet.
  • Smooth ride. The big boards are not as susceptible to choppy water conditions and can feel like gliding on air.

Priority in the lineup for a long boarder is like a fast pass to your favorite attraction. In the line-up long boards are chairman of the board.

Quick advantages of surfing with a longboard at Bolsa Chica or Playa Guiones:

  • Both Bolsa Chica and Playa Guiones are consistent with longboard friendly and long board advantageous conditions.
  • Each spot is known to break with nice even workable waves that do not “pitch” or “throw” hard.
  • The surf is generally fun and consistent year round.


In Line-ups around the globe, longboards are the royalty of the surf.

 The royal roots of surfing

 According to ancient Pacific Island lore. One legend tells us that back in the day, same as today, life on the Islands was intertwined and dependent upon the ocean.Being an accomplished waterman in the village was a very respected skill. Often the best watermen in the village were considered chiefs and treated like royalty. These watermen chiefs were known as Kahuna. The oceans meant everything to the people and their survival. Being able to navigate the ocean and feed a village was a big deal.

So how does this relate to surfing?

This is the root of surfing.

Legend has that a particularly stormy season was taking it’s toll on a Pacific Island village. The storms wiped out their crops. The village needed fish. Their Kahuna was the best waterman in the village. Following his heart and his instincts the Kahuna went out fishing in the stormy ocean.. He would brave the ocean storms to feed the village.Knowing it might mean the end of his life. The Kahuna was willing to risk everything for the wellbeing of the people he called family. That type of spirit is what made him royalty in his village.The Kahuna set out in his one man boat to harvest the oceans bounty. As he pulled fish after fish into his boat the pounding of the ocean began taking its toll.

The sides of the boat began leaking. The Kahuna’s boat began taking on water. Knowing that if the boat sinks, he could lose his catch, his boat, and possibly his life.The Kahuna acted swiftly and purposefully.Instead of giving up and sinking into the ocean. The Kahuna began to do something unexpected.

The Kahuna tapped into his heart and instincts. He strung his catch together and began to break his boat apart even more. Completely removing the hull walls of the boat leaving only the bottom.  The bottom of the boat was buoyant enough to float. He started paddling making his way back toward shore. The closer to shore the Kahuna got the happier his heart became. The Kahuna became so overjoyed to see the faces of his family waiting for him on the beach that he stood up and began riding the waves into the shore like a champion of life. This is part of the magic of the Kahuna. His boat became the first surfboard. The Kahuna became the first surfer.

Instead of giving up. The Kahuna followed his heart and his instincts. He fed the village and surfing was born. Truly Royal in life, love, spirit.As the ancient Kahuna would tell you. The longboard has strong roots for a good surfing foundation. Learning to surf and navigate the ocean on a long board  is the key to years of surfing joy.

Whether you call it a boat, a log, or a surfboard. The longboard will always be the OG root of surfing. The “chairman of the boards.”

Answer to today’s question: The original “surfboards” :) were  originally named based off of the specific wood and shape used to make the board. Some boards were exclusively reserved for use by Hawaiian royalty.  The penalty was deaaaaaath if ridden by non royal kooks. 

Long board chairman

Check out these spots for the hot board history info:

“revolution of short boards in the 60’s.’’ -surfer today

International Surfing Museum Huntington Beach, CA

Surfing Heritage and Culture Center in San Clemente, CA

Written by Chris Benton “The Blog Master”

Will the New High Tech Wave Theaters Change Surfing?

 “Arizona?!” -Corky Carroll from the movie “The North Shore” 1987
In that one-word response to a pro surfer from a wave tank in AZ, Corky captured it all

Kelly Slater Wave Co is working on opening his fully green, solar powered, programmable techno-wave ranch to the public ???? Soon. Somewhere in central CA.

“We appear to be watching the ocean..”- Rick Caine. 

Can the new high tech wave theaters compete with our oceans?

Will they change the face of surfing?

When I look at footage of the manmade NLand surf park in Austin Texas and Kelly Slater Wave Co’s version of machined waves via YouTube. I gaze at the screen with my jaw gapped and mouthwatering over seemingly endless tasty waves.

The new spots seem like perfect fun but I can’t help but notice how something is missing…

Lines from the movie “The North Shore” come barreling into my head. Here is why.

That epic slice of 80’s cinema, and one liner heaven, is a statement from 1987 about exactly what I am looking at today. Surfing in a controlled synthetic environment and how that compares to surfing in the ocean.

wave pool vs real ocean surfing kelly slater

Tanks are a great way to bring surfing to spots that do not have surf

“The North Shore” movie is about a surfer from Arizona. Rick wins the Arizona state surf championship at his local wave tank. Instead of buying tacos with his winnings and staying home, Rick slides that wad to his travel agent, and follows his dream of surfing the big waves of the North Shore of Hawaii. Right there, that, should tell you something.

-The wave park champ can’t wait to get out of the wave park and actually surf the breaks of his dreams.

OK that was 1987′ and Rick’s wave park was literally a pool. It represents the antiquated idea of a wave tank.

Modern wave pool technology

Flash forward to today. The combination of research, engineering and technology have allowed for dramatic change in the performance of wave pool capabilities.

  • NLand is in Texas, which I know is different than Arizona, but I think we can all agree that ya don’t think of surfers or surf spots when I mention Arizona or Texas. Cowboys and deserts yes, Surfers? No.
  • Austin is a great spot for a wave tank competition if you have the whole thing to yourself.
    However, because you are in a smaller space the waves seem a little crowded.
  • In order to keep secondary back wash and inner pool turbulence to a minimum the wave generation has to be somewhat infrequent. So not a lot of waves, looks like 10-12 waves per hour in choppy conditions.
  • The session ends and everyone is asked to leave the water.

Problem with the wave pool idea especially for beginners is the limited time you get to spend in the water. Compared to the time you get to spend in the ocean it isn’t even close. When your session is over at the surf park, it’s over.

For beginners the new parks can help you learn what it might be like to surf and give you a fundamental foundation for getting up and riding your first waves. You catch it. You ride it. That’s surfing right?  You can work on skills and rest assured there will be waves. Seems safe and fun but short lived.

The waves look awesome for intermediate to advanced surf enthusiasts that have a dream to one day go to a manmade break and pay per hour to ride.

I could see Olympic surfing truly happen now which would be great for surfing.

“I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.” – Kelly Slater

Best wave pool option out there

Kelly Slater Wave Co did the right thing! Kelly has gone all green energy and fully programmable. Dial up any wave from anywhere in the world and his machine will produce unreal epic replications of waves. The waves are long and shreddable.

  • He is using only solar energy.
  • For perfect conditions, the glassy conditions you dream of, his smaller pool can generate and handle 4 “perfect” waves per hour.
  • Great for more tank contests and promoting green energy, awesome!

 “Eskimos have several hundred words for snow. Well, Hawaiians have just as many words to describe waves and ocean conditions.” -Chandler


The wave pool has two words to describe its conditions: on and off

For an advanced surfer with dreams of a certain break like pipeline or somewhere in Costa Rica a wave pool like Slaters Wave Co is totally programmable. It can provide a simulated experience and is a great way to have a guaranteed perfect wave.  You can practice what it could be like to actually be there.

Only problem with that for our bucket listers is you can’t say that you have surfed a break unless you have been there and surfed it.

You can’t dial up a wave and tell everyone at home you just surfed the pier in Huntington Beach a.k.a. Surf City USA like they do at the US Open event that is held there every year.

All the visceral knowledge of and about ocean conditions or why we should care for our oceans is lost in a wave tank. Anyway way you look at it, there is no ocean at a wave tank. Once you leave you may not find yourself surrounded by a richly rooted surf community based in surfing heritage and spirit.

“The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.” – Laird Hamilton  

 kelly slater wave pool

What are your roots?

Corky Carrolls surf schools are rooted into two epic surf spots and are submerged in surf culture: Bolsa Chica State Beach, Huntington Beach, CA and Playa Guiones, Nosara, Costa Rica

  • Huntington Beach
  • Huntington Beach Pier
  • Dukes
  • Jack’s Surfboards

Why did the original pioneer of professional surfing Corky Carroll put his surf school at Bolsa Chica?

Just like in gardening, for surfing, where you plant your surfing roots is important for you and your sprouting grommets. In gardening the seed sprouts roots into the Earth to connect with it for nutrition. In surfing our dreams are the seeds that we connect with our lives. We are planting our surfing roots and connecting our dreams into our life. Surfing becomes the root source of living a dream. We truly grow because of it.

The overall connective experience that people are looking for when beginning their surfing adventures and planting their surfing roots can only be found by being submerged in the oceans and the surrounding communities. You are planting your surfing roots and your life grows because of it physically, mentally, spiritually.

You remember your first wave. You remember the people you meet. It all becomes a part of you and your personal surfing journey.

Bolsa Chica translates to “Little Pockets.” I like to say Little Pockets runs deep in surfing roots, heritage, and history.

Bolsa Chica State beach has a sweetness to it.  Perfect for beginners, campers, families and journeymen alike.

bolsa chica

  • *It’s protected, smooth, flat beaches are the beneficiary of California weather. It doesn’t suffer from lack of waves being consistent with swell from any direction.
  • *Talk about legendary surf roots and community: Not only was Corky Carroll the first professional surfer, Corky helped pioneer another surf staple. Just up the road is Kasnvas By Katin where he helped with the designs for the original pair of board shorts.
  • *When your lesson for the day is over at the beach. The ocean is still open. The ocean doesn’t black ball you after your hour is up.

Bolsa Chica has less black ball issue hours than most breaks local to Huntington Beach

Encounters with the local dolphins happen almost daily at Bolsa Chica and other surrounding breaks. In Costa Rica Howler Monkeys and animals of all kinds are always around.

Connecting with Mother Nature and connecting with animals in a shared environment does something to our perspective. It can be life changing, and life enhancing.

Something resonates with the soul when you are surrounded by Mother Nature’s vast epi-scapes like “the Cliffs”@ Huntington Beach, the wetlands @ Bolsa Chica State Beach, or the sugary beaches of Costa Rica. The soul connection to the ocean’s power and beauty cannot be found in a manmade pool. A wave pool just can’t beat the life enhancing challenges and bond building experiences that the ocean can present. Our oceans are priceless.

When a surfer talks about choosing his line, he is talking about something unique that is within each wave and each person. Surfing in the ocean is another way to tap into your overall sensory awareness, learn something about yourself, and express it creatively.

I love pools but they are not alive like the ocean

Ricks roots did not change because he went to surf in Hawaii. He struggled to take his surfing into the ocean. His surfing roots were still in Arizona. Then he connected more dream roots when he combined his dreams with his reality. He was the champion of a park and his ultimate dream was to surf for real. That should tell you something about the difference between manmade wave parks and the real natural deal. That will not change, I still think Corky said it best -“Arizona?!”

Looking at the new wave theaters I can’t help but notice how something is missing.

So where do you go to practice and learn how to surf?

The path you choose is up to you.

How to enjoy your surf lessons Santa Monica?

The heat of Southern California in summer may not be a favorite of every one living in or visiting the area. But, this very weather is just perfect for surfers looking for some surf lessons Santa Monica. Compared to the winters, surfing in summers in Santa Monica will definitely provide you with the best conditions for beginners like you. This is because; during this time the waves are quite mellow and have small peaks and so a beginner will be able to manage the waves quite easily. Besides this, as the weather is warm there will be no need to buy or rent wetsuit.

Having said that, with the tips mentioned here you can learn to surf Santa Monica no matter if it’s summer or winter:

Find the best Instructor

The success in learning the surf lesson effectively is very much depended on the instructor you pick. Yes, it is very much understandable that you want to save some bucks and learn few pointers from some local surfer. But, it is highly advised that this is avoided. They might be good surfers but that do not mean that they are good teachers. Surfing can get risky and hence to make sure you are getting the best surf lessons Santa Monica, always go with a professional.

Option of private lessons and group lessons

When you are learning to surf for the very first time, it is quite obvious that you will fall a couple of times before you get the hang of it. Most people get embarrassed because of this, and they end up ditching on the lesson. If you feel uncomfortable learning in front of a crowd and your fellow batch mates, then take the advantage of private surf lessons Santa Monica.

The fact that it is a huge beach will also work in your favor if you are looking for privacy. There are many popular crowded spots where beginners start their surfing lessons but, there are also many other spots that remain secluded. With a private lesson and a secluded place you can learn comfortably without the worries of being embarrassed or crashing into another surfer.

Here it should be mentioned that, if you select a qualified professional then you can choose between private and group surf lessons Santa Monica. So, if private lessons are not your thing and you want to learn surfing with your closest buddies then, you have the option to choose group lessons. Besides, group lessons can be very motivating of you. As, then you will get to meet new people with same interest and also can gain enthusiasm to do better.

Don’t rush it

Giving time to your surfing lesson is a very crucial. So, trust the process adopted by your instructor. Surfing cannot be learnt in a day and what might work for others, might not be the right method for you. So, give your instructor the time to figure out what is best for you and then take your time to learn that specific Santa Monica surf lessons and then practice quite often to become good at it.

So, these were some of tips which every beginner should know. Now, follow these tips and you will be able to use your surf lessons in Santa Monica to be an excellent surfer.

Learn How to Surf Like a Pro with Surfing Lessons in Los Angeles



Surfing has provided numerous individuals with the most amazing moments, loaded with adrenaline and inspiration. While those spectacular occasions are something that just can’t be beat, it takes a lot of work and drive to become that good of a surfer who can ultimately handle those divine waves. That is why obtaining fun and educational surf lessons los angeles is a must for those who want to become the kind of surfers who inspire and enjoy such a magnificent sport as surfing, all at the very same time.

Even though it is a good thing to begin surfing while you are still young, any age can pursue it and no doubt have a blast of a time while you are learning it. As many of you can see, there is somewhere around 95% of the surfers who inhabit the water are typically paddling their ways around as opposed to riding the waves. The reason is because it does take a lot to become a good surfer, especially in the physical department. Surfer’s must slowly accumulate a great amount of upper-body strength and it is the conditions in which they train that will ultimately get them there.

Learn the Fundamentals of Surfing

To garner that type of conditioning it will take a good deal of confidence along with every type of possible ocean setting and scenario. Los Angeles surf lessons will function under a particular amount of focus which will provide the proper teachings regarding how to be proactive in terms of safety and of course the basic but highly knowledgeable fundamentals on how to be a great surfer. There a specific scenarios incorporated within the lessons to assure that every individual in the class or receiving the information adequately and that it will be knowledge which will stay with them forever.

The bottom line is, taking a surf lesson los angeles is undeniably a fun and certainly exhilarating time for anybody who attends. You will be shown in the very best way possible regarding how to properly ride a surfboard and the beneficial paddling techniques that will play such a pivotal role as you go along. Then the moment will arrive when you finally make contact with the water and you will begin what will be a fantastic tenure of your recreational life. With surf lessons Los Angeles yelp, you will learn how to adequately position your body and balance correctly at the same time you are riding the waves.

Learn to surf camp will normally take you out to intermediate areas of the water when you first begin. Here you will learn how to retain the best focus you can while learning how to stabilize yourself just right to continue your ride. Slowly but surely, you will get to take on more of the challenging waves to see where your skill level is and from there you will know where you stand.

Find Your Greatness

The best surf lessons Los Angeles is where to start becoming what you were always meant to be, a great surfer with endless stories to tell everybody about how many epic waves you have ridden. Surf lessons Los Angeles is what so many others have done to get to their greatness, this just happens to be your time.

Why You Need Surf Camps and Surf Lessons


Video on surf camps Costa Rica

If you have watched experienced surfers do their thing, you will note that it looks both effortless and fun. The way those professional surfers ride the waves with grace makes aspiring surfers fantasize of doing a 360. To the novice surfer, here are your news; surfing requires skills, effort and like any other skill, endless practice. Mastering the skills and riding the waves and the swells the way those surfers do on your TV requires patience too. The best surf camps will always make sure you learn your lessons before venturing into the deep waters and high tides.

Surfing is popular in several destinations around the world; surf camps Costa Rica, surf camps Los Angeles and much more. To this end, you can get surfing resources and instructional materials on the sport. You can read guides, manuals, online articles, watch videos, DVD and so much more. There are thousands of articles online dealing with the subject. Granted, the materials are always accurate and help you learn a lot on surfing. If you are the guy who learns through reading and watching, you will learn a hefty bit of surfing. Besides, you do not have to spend a buck as these resources are given out freely.

While this method of instruction is so popular, you still need surfing skills. To master the skill, you have to surf and surf again. The above method will work as a DIY but not many people are willing to risk the tides following an online DIY.

Benefits of Surf Camps

The lessons you get in a surf camp cannot be equated to those you get in books. Here, you learn everything about surfing from the basics, the equipment, posture and surfing techniques among others. You will be taught how to stay safe while battling the tides and what to do in case you trip off your surfboard.

The edge in training at surf camps Orange County or any other camps is the immediate feedback you get from your instructor. There is nothing that hastens your learning like having someone point out your weak points at every point in your surfing lessons. Besides pointing out what you are doing incorrectly, the instructor shows you the right way of doing it. You can also ask anything you are not sure of. It is safe to have someone besides you when you head to the oceans. The waters can be wild at times, you know.

During one of your surf vacations, you will meet people in the same level as you in a surf camp. You will motivate each other and learn faster. During your next surfing vacation, you will already have surfing buddies. So after reading your articles and watching those instructional DVDs, head out and register on a surfing camp.

Choosing a Surfing Camp

There are a number of surf camps which include women’s surf camps, kids surf camps, family surf camps and general surf camps where all meet. The one you choose will depend on the privacy you need and who accompanies you on your surf vacations.

Interested in learning more about surf camps? Call our friendly staff at 714-969-3959 or reach out via our contact form…We look forward to hearing from you!

Because the ocean is part of nature, you should always have a keen awareness of your surroundings: currents may make you drift north or southward; riptides can pull you out deeper into the ocean. But with time and practice, you will know for which waves to paddle and from which conditions to stay away. Follow these seven steps in learning how to surf and you will soon be on your way in becoming the best surfer you can be through respect for the ocean and self.

Step 1. Choose the best board for you.

The best board from which to choose does not mean selecting the most expensive board; it does not mean selecting a big brand board; it does not mean selecting a colorful, artistic board. You want to make sure that the height and width are suitable to your skills.

When you are confident to purchase your own surfboard, keep these considerations in mind. But start with a soft top longboard when learning how to surf.

Step 2. Wetsuit, wax, leash, and sunscreen.

Other than a necessary surfboard, you will also need these other surf essentials. Rarely is it warm enough to surf in a bikini or trunks year round. Wear an appropriate wetsuit according to the water’s temperature. Typically, you can get away without a wetsuit in the summer time, or wear a spring suit. In the fall and spring, a 3.2 mm wetsuit is advised. And during the winter season, at least a 4.3mm wetsuit is recommended.

It is nearly impossible to surf without waxing your board. Make sure to wax the areas of your surfboard that your body needs to stick to. For instance: where your feet are placed or where your chest lies when paddling and the rails.

You want to wear a leash around your ankle in order to have more control over your board. For example, if you let go of your board when a wave crashes on you, the leash will prevent the board from washing ashore. Just before you enter the water, securely fasten the leash on your ankle of the back foot. When you learn how to pop up, you will discover which foot goes in the back.
Lips, nose and ears are the most sensitive areas of your face that are exposed to the sun because they are raised. Make sure to apply sunscreen all over, but especially those features.

Step 3. Paddle, Paddle, Paddle.

Surfing consists of paddling more so than riding a wave. Paddling can take a lot of energy until you make it to lineup. It is vital that you use only the amount of energy necessary when paddling. The only movement should be in your arms- not your legs or hips. Make sure that your hands are cupped and fingers closed without any space in between. Arch your back and keep your feet together in order for agile mobility. Locate the board’s stringer, which is typically a wooden line that stretches from the nose to the board’s tail. Align your nose with the stringer to balance yourself on the center of the board.

If a small wave breaks in front of you, go “up and over.” Simply place your hands below your chest as if you were performing a pushup. Only lift your chest and keep your legs on the board. If the wave is too big to complete an “up and over,” then do a “turtle roll.” Roll over either to the right or left side of your board. You will be upside down, facing the sky, underwater for a couple seconds. Hold a tight grip on the rails and rest underneath your board until the wave passes. Flip back over and keep paddling until you reach the lineup.

Step 4. Sit on your board.

Once you have made it to the outside, you can sit on your board. Start with a push up position and swing both legs on each side of the board. Your butt will naturally sit on the board, but make sure it is sitting on the center of the board so you do not tip over. When you see a wave you like, add weight to the tail and turn your body. This way, you will turn around quickly toward the shore.

Step 5. Catch the wave and pop up.

In order to catch a wave, you must paddle for it. If you notice the board is nosediving, then scoot back on the board- too much weight is near the nose. If you are paddling as hard as you can and still cannot catch the wave, then scoot forward on the board. In this case, you would need a little more weight toward the nose. The perfect place to locate your body when catching a wave is called the waterline. The waterline is where the water crosses over you board. Your upper chest should remain below this water line.

Once you are in motion with the wave, pop up to your feet. Place your hands below your chest to a mini push up. Then, drag your front foot forward and keep your back foot behind your front foot. Place your feet in the center of the board along the stringer, but stay low with bent knees to help stabilize yourself. Remember to keep enough space between your feet for more balance. Angle your front foot toward shore and pivot your back foot left or right, depending on your stance. You will either have a goofy or regular stance. If your right foot in forward, then your surf stance is goofy. If your left foot is forward, then your stance is regular.

Do not delay popping up, because you will feel comfortable lying down. But also do not pop up too quickly in the event you have not fully caught the wave. Never go to your knees before standing up. You may think it will help you get to your feet, but it will only get you stuck in that position; it is a hard habit to break.

Step 6. A graceful wipeout.

It is inevitable that you will wipeout- even the professionals will fall down. When you lose your balance and plunge in the water, wrap your arms around your head and face. Protect those areas from the moment you fall to when you surface. Try not to fall in front of your board. Rather, fall to the left or right side. In these circumstances, the board is susceptible to hitting you. The ocean is a wild environment, so safety should always come first.

Step 7. Know how to get out of the water.

Just as you would when entering the ocean, shuffle your feet along the sand to avoid getting stung by a stingray. Never stomp your feet while in the water. You can either catch a wave all the way to shore or paddle in. If you do ride a wave in, be aware of your fins- you would not want to have them loosened by getting stuck in the sand. If you paddle in, do not fix your gaze on the beach. Keep looking back at the horizon. You never want to fully have your back turned against the waves unless you are surfing.

Take your leash off and wrap it around the board when you are on dry sand. If you try to do this in the shore break, the board will possibly hit you on the head.

We hope reading these steps have made you more confident in learning how to surf. Surf camps and lessons are helpful in getting the hang of it, but you are ultimately your best instructor. Don’t stop surfing after camp- keep it up! Surf with friends that are either at your level or better; you can always learn from others. When the waves are bad, watch professional surf videos and memorize the way they surf. If you want to become a great surfer, be patient, humble and determined. And no matter the progression of your surf skills, keep the stoke alive.

Surf Lesson on Life


We found this great article on how the ocean and surfing can be a great guide to our overall lives in and out of the water…We fully agree with this outlook…enjoy!

Learn to Surf the Waves of Life

Life is like the ocean: Sometimes it’s stormy, choppy, and a complete mess, other times it’s calm and perfect. In the ocean, risk and opportunity go hand-in-hand. The more waves you go for, the more you’ll catch. Every day in the water and every wave presents a new opportunity.

Surfing is completely unpredictable, which keeps you constantly coming back for more. But there’s a strong correlation between your success and your tolerance for risks in both the ocean and life—and both require the same approach and process:

1. Get in the water

2. Understand and accept the fear

3. Go for it

4. Embrace uncertainty

5. Enjoy the bliss

6. Reflect on the choice

7. Do it all again


Special thanks to https://www.openforum.com/articles/7-lessons-we-can-learn-from-surfers for laying out the surf lesson on life in such simple terms.

If you are looking for surf lesson deals for surf lessons in Orange County or for surf lessons in Huntington Beach, simply drop your info in our contact form, email us, or give us a quick call at 714-696-3959.

Learn to Surf Southern California and Costa Rican Waves with Style and Flair


The Net is likewise a terrific area to find that pointers and also techniques no matter if you are a novice or professional. The exact same goes for discovering your equipment; the Net could conserve you cash as well as additionally allow you contrast the various readily available devices.

Just what do I have to have? Do I really need to purchase a surf board?

The majority of surfing schools as well as surfing teachers could offer you training surf boards, yet when you make a decision to become dedicated, most definitely go get for yourself a wonderful surfboard. Wetsuits are typically supplied with your sessions, yet you could also have your very own. Items you will most definitely have to bring are swimwear, sunscreen block, a towel, as well as water (it is very easy to become very dehydrated in the sunshine).

Which surf school should I go to for the best place to learn to surf?

Learn to surf Orange County & Learn to Surf Huntington Beach – There are many fantastic areas to surf in Southern California. Huntington Beach Surfing has actually been recognized to have a few of one of the most regular waves in OC. San Diego surfing, around Encinitas and also La Jolla is likewise astonishing. Most importantly, there are absolutely spots to find trainers as well as surf lessons at a wonderful cost. Laguna coastline surfing has actually been recognized to have some of the most constant waves in OC.

Exactly what are the typical terms utilized in Surfing?

Among the facets of to getting associated with a brand-new sporting activity or leisure activity is finding out the terminology.

Have a look at a few of the usual terms made use of in surfing as discovered straight on the Wikipedia.org (Surfing) site:

* Regular/Natural foot – Right foot on rear of board

* Goofy foot – Left foot on rear of board

* Take off – the beginning of a wave

* Drop in – going down right into (surfing) the wave, frequently as part of standing

* Stall – reducing speed from adding weight on the tail of the board or a hand drag in the water.

* Over the falls – When a surf rider drops and also the wave supports him in a round thrust with the lip of the wave, likewise described as the “washing pattern”, being “pitched over” and also being “drawn over” considering that the wave draws you off of the near bottom of the coral reef as well as draws you “over the falls.”.

* Floater – surfing up on the near top of the tumbling part of the wave.

* Carve – turns (usually emphasized).

* Snap – a fast, sharp turn off the top part of a wave.

* Fade – on drop in, guiding towards the whitewater part of the wave, just before quickly turning dramatically as well as surfing in the way the wave is crumbling in the direction of.

* Pump – an up/down snaking activity that creates velocity along a wave.

* Switch-foot – having equivalent capability to surf routine foot or goofy foot– like being ambidextrous.

* Shoulder – the unbroken part of the wave.

* Re-entry – attacking the lip up and down and also returning to the wave in fast sequence.

* Duck dive – pressing the board undersea, nose down, and also diving underneath an approaching wave as opposed to surfing it.

* Air/Aerial – surfing the board briefly right into the air over the wave, landing back after the wave, as well as remaining to surfing.

* Hang Heels – Standing in reverse and also placing the wave rider’s heels over the edge of a longboard.

* Off the Top – a turn on the top part of a wave, either sharp or sculpting.

* Tube riding/Getting barreled – surfing inside the tube of a wave.

* Grom/Grommet-kid boarder (typically under 15).

* Cutback – a turn slicing back towards the crumbling part of the wave.

* Hang-five/hang-ten – placing 5 or 10 toes specifically over the nose of a longboard.

* Pearl- A nose-dive.

* Bottom turn – the very first turn near the bottom of the wave.

* Snaking/Back-Paddling – navigating around a person to get back right into the most desired positioning for a wave (basically taking it).

* Fins-free (or “fins out”) – a sharp turn where the fins glide off the top part of the wave.

* Drop in on, cut off, or “burn” – dropping in on a wave before somebody closer in to the top (taken into consideration as unsuitable).

Interested in learning more about surf lessons? Simply fill out our contact form, email us, or give us a quick call at 714-969-3959.

Surf Lessons & Ocean Safety



Surfing is one of the most exhilarating water sports with waves as the key ingredient! It is a fun way to keep
fit and have fun at the same time. For passionate surfers who want to add to their skills or those interested in learning the sport, surfing lessons come in handy.

Although here are many surf schools that are offering various surfing lesson packages that include surf lessons for kids, not all surf schools are equal. These lessons start with the very basic skills that give a potential surfer the confidence to balance on the surfboard and learn vital ocean safety skills.

There are a couple of surf schools where you can learn how to surf. An example is Huntington Beach. The surf lessons Huntington Beach are versatile and you can get private lessons as well as group lessons. The surf lessons are
suitable for starters, intermediate and even those in the advanced levels.

The surf instructors are usually professional experts who are competent and skilled to equip even those who know
nothing of surfing. Some surfing schools have surfing lessons all year round. The instructors at different levels are differently trained so as not to either push you beyond what you do not understand or over emphasize what you already know while emphasizing safety.

Surfing lessons equip you with the best technique to set you off on the right foot. Surfing is not just about getting your board and getting on the water. It is a skill that has to be learned for it to be fun as well as beneficial to the body. Learning the best technique through attending surfing lessons help you harness the body strength and cardiovascular fitness that actual surfing provides.

The essence of surfing schools is the all round way in which they prepare the surfers. There are essentials about the
dangers of the ocean and how best to keep safe as well as how to choose the best surfing spots so as not to put yourself at risk. The lessons will take you through the nitty-gritty of how to select the best board to suit the level at
which you are as well as your physique. Starters basically are taught on selecting boards that are easier to paddle, ride and stand on.

The best thing about going to actual surfing lessons is that you will get to know about things like surfing
etiquette. Things like respecting other riders, sharing surfs optimally, no surf zones, how to handle collisions effectively and also boundaries where other people’s equipment is concerned.

By the end of your course you will be well versed in reading the ocean environment for rips and changes in water
color and weather patterns so as to avoid injury. Different levels are taught on the safest distances to keep while enjoying their surfs.

As you plan to enroll for these very required surf lessons always remember that surfing is fun, relaxing and helps
keep you fit and stress free. The cost of enrolling for its lessons is necessitated by the untamed dangers of the ocean and the need to effectively learn how to make the best of this water sport. Enroll today. Be a knowledgeable surfer.

Simply fill out the contact form, email, or give us a call at 741-969-3959!

The Surf School Resolution



We thought this was a great resolution and we agree to adopt it…surf more this year!


The New year has just kicked off and most people have gone into full swing on their new years resolution. What’s yours?

Think about it, “resolution” means: A course of action determined or decided on.

surfing north shore oahu

Well my course of action is to surf more. Just the other day I played the lazy card and made up a bunch of excuses as to why I shouldn’t…

View On WordPress


Share this if you agree that surfing more is a great resolution!