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A Surfer for President? Why the Long board is Chairman of the Board

Image- Recording artist Corky Carroll “Surfer for President”

What were long boards called  before the revolution of  shortboards sparked up in the 50’s & 60’s?…

 Hey guys today I am answering that and:

  • Why should I learn to surf on a longboard?
  • Why do surf schools act like the longboard is the chairman of the board?
  • Long board chairman

These days there are so many different types of surfboards. We have laser cut, light weight, durable, maneuverable, wafer-thin, easy to carry, short surfboards. Boards are being made with space aged materials developed by NASA scientists that have devoted their lives to making pans.(story for another day)

So why do we still use long boards to teach surfing with so many different board types to choose from? It can be confusing trying to figure out what kind of board to use when beginning surfing. This should make things a little easier for you.

There are many reasons why beginning with the long board is the best and easiest way to ensure you have the most fun and safe time building a solid foundation on your way to surfing your little guts out. Learning to surf should be fun. The surfboard you choose to plant your fun-damental roots with is important.

 In this video Corky makes it look like dancing Surfing is a way to express your joy and style through sweet moves to a rhythm.

Instead of moving to the beat of the drums we move with the rhythm of the ocean. The oceans act as our universal dance conductor. Our beautiful waves are the music and our board becomes our partner. Using a longboard is a great way to express personal style.When learning how to dance it would make sense to learn on a solid dance floor, right? The process of becoming in touch with your mind body connection and working out the movements you want to use to express your funky, funky, joy. Would be much easier, and in turn, much more fun on a solid platform rather than a tight rope…

That might sound like an extreme comparison. So is learning to surf on a short board compared to the huge advantages of rooting your surfing fundamentals on a nice stable foundation like a longboard. At least at first…

Long board

Quick Advantages to rooting with a longboard:

  • Paddling is much easier than on a short board.
  • A long board allows you to catch a wave earlier and more easily. Being at the front of the line-up gives you the most opportunity to catch waves in the first come first served style lineups of today.
  • Easier to sit on (which can be tricky) long boards are more stable.
  • The extra stability of a long board allows for the long take offs that beginners might experience so you catch more waves and have more time to get to your feet.
  • Smooth ride. The big boards are not as susceptible to choppy water conditions and can feel like gliding on air.

Priority in the lineup for a long boarder is like a fast pass to your favorite attraction. In the line-up long boards are chairman of the board.

Quick advantages of surfing with a longboard at Bolsa Chica or Playa Guiones:

  • Both Bolsa Chica and Playa Guiones are consistent with longboard friendly and long board advantageous conditions.
  • Each spot is known to break with nice even workable waves that do not “pitch” or “throw” hard.
  • The surf is generally fun and consistent year round.

 

In Line-ups around the globe, longboards are the royalty of the surf.

 The royal roots of surfing

 According to ancient Pacific Island lore. One legend tells us that back in the day, same as today, life on the Islands was intertwined and dependent upon the ocean.Being an accomplished waterman in the village was a very respected skill. Often the best watermen in the village were considered chiefs and treated like royalty. These watermen chiefs were known as Kahuna. The oceans meant everything to the people and their survival. Being able to navigate the ocean and feed a village was a big deal.

So how does this relate to surfing?

This is the root of surfing.

Legend has that a particularly stormy season was taking it’s toll on a Pacific Island village. The storms wiped out their crops. The village needed fish. Their Kahuna was the best waterman in the village. Following his heart and his instincts the Kahuna went out fishing in the stormy ocean.. He would brave the ocean storms to feed the village.Knowing it might mean the end of his life. The Kahuna was willing to risk everything for the wellbeing of the people he called family. That type of spirit is what made him royalty in his village.The Kahuna set out in his one man boat to harvest the oceans bounty. As he pulled fish after fish into his boat the pounding of the ocean began taking its toll.

The sides of the boat began leaking. The Kahuna’s boat began taking on water. Knowing that if the boat sinks, he could lose his catch, his boat, and possibly his life.The Kahuna acted swiftly and purposefully.Instead of giving up and sinking into the ocean. The Kahuna began to do something unexpected.

The Kahuna tapped into his heart and instincts. He strung his catch together and began to break his boat apart even more. Completely removing the hull walls of the boat leaving only the bottom.  The bottom of the boat was buoyant enough to float. He started paddling making his way back toward shore. The closer to shore the Kahuna got the happier his heart became. The Kahuna became so overjoyed to see the faces of his family waiting for him on the beach that he stood up and began riding the waves into the shore like a champion of life. This is part of the magic of the Kahuna. His boat became the first surfboard. The Kahuna became the first surfer.

Instead of giving up. The Kahuna followed his heart and his instincts. He fed the village and surfing was born. Truly Royal in life, love, spirit.As the ancient Kahuna would tell you. The longboard has strong roots for a good surfing foundation. Learning to surf and navigate the ocean on a long board  is the key to years of surfing joy.

Whether you call it a boat, a log, or a surfboard. The longboard will always be the OG root of surfing. The “chairman of the boards.”

Answer to today’s question: The original “surfboards” 🙂 were  originally named based off of the specific wood and shape used to make the board. Some boards were exclusively reserved for use by Hawaiian royalty.  The penalty was deaaaaaath if ridden by non royal kooks. 

Long board chairman

Check out these spots for the hot board history info:

“revolution of short boards in the 60’s.’’ -surfer today

International Surfing Museum Huntington Beach, CA

Surfing Heritage and Culture Center in San Clemente, CA

Written by Chris Benton “The Blog Master”

No more shark paranoia: 5 facts that will ease your fear of sharks

Enough with the shark paranoia fed from the media. With the rise in technological consumerism, such as GoPros and drones, news coverage has been more focused toward shark sightings, causing people to mistakenly assume that there are more sharks in the water. Rather, they have always been around. The only difference now is that people have the technology to document. Certainly, sharks pose danger to those who enter the ocean, but so do other sea creatures, such as sting rays and seals. Anyone who enters the ocean must know that he or she is entering a wild environment that is home to wild sea life. Open water swimmers and surfers must be aware of the difference between SeaWorld and the ocean. The open sea is not an environment to fear, but one to respect. The most efficient way people can respect the ocean is if they educate themselves. Here are five shark facts that will answer some of your lingering questions regarding sharks.

1. Sharks do not like humans. They love stingrays.

Sea lions, fish, mollusks and even other sharks are a few of the sea creatures that sharks prey upon. The reason sometimes sharks bite humans is because we are mistaken for seals. In order to prevent a shark from mistaking you as its meal, it is advised to enter the ocean on a sunny, clear day. That way, a shark will have better vision differentiating between you and a seal as opposed to when the water is murky.

The good news is that sharks also eat stingrays. This predation helps our surfers and instructors in reducing the chances of getting stung from a stingray, which is more prevalent than getting attacked by a shark. Instructors are more likely to get stung because they are the ones walking along the ocean floor without a surfboard, while surfers are less likely to get stung because stingrays like to hide in the sand. Hence, stingrays serve as easy food for sharks because they rarely surface, making the ocean a safer environment for surfers.

2. The sharks seen off our coast are juveniles.

Sand tiger sharks are most common to our waters. Their name indicates that they stay near the bottom of the ocean, briefly swimming to the surface for air. Growing about 100 cm in length as juveniles, they are harmless. These sharks are extremely shy, making it an effort to avoid humans. According to an article from the OC Register, the juvenile great white sharks that have recently been reported on the media are being studied by Cal State University, Long Beach marine biologists.

3. There are no reports of a shark attack at Bolsa Chica State Beach.

Out of the 180 shark attacks dated from 1900 until present day throughout North America’s Pacific Ocean, only four have occurred in Huntington Beach. However, the Shark Research Committee considers a shark mistakenly bumping into a surfer while looking for fish to be an attack. The recorded “attacks” from Huntington have never resulted in any injuries. The committee also shows no record of any sharks attacks from Bolsa Chica.

4. You are more likely to get struck by lightning than get attacked by a shark.

The chances of you getting attacked by a shark are slim. According to the Florida Museum of Natural History, the odds of a fatal shark attack are 1 in 3,748,067. Florida Museum of Natural History also states that your chances of getting struck by lightning are 1 in 79,746. Those statistics should ease your worries.

5. Dolphins and sharks do not get along.

Sharks rarely attack dolphins, which is why dolphins are thought of to be guardians of the sea. A dolphin’s “bumping” behavior typically keeps sharks away from them. Since dolphins travel in pods, an individual shark can easily become intimated by a pod of dolphins. This is reassuring because dolphins can be seen almost every day in front of our camp.

Surf Lessons & Ocean Safety

 

 

Surfing is one of the most exhilarating water sports with waves as the key ingredient! It is a fun way to keep
fit and have fun at the same time. For passionate surfers who want to add to their skills or those interested in learning the sport, surfing lessons come in handy.

Although here are many surf schools that are offering various surfing lesson packages that include surf lessons for kids, not all surf schools are equal. These lessons start with the very basic skills that give a potential surfer the confidence to balance on the surfboard and learn vital ocean safety skills.

There are a couple of surf schools where you can learn how to surf. An example is Huntington Beach. The surf lessons Huntington Beach are versatile and you can get private lessons as well as group lessons. The surf lessons are
suitable for starters, intermediate and even those in the advanced levels.

The surf instructors are usually professional experts who are competent and skilled to equip even those who know
nothing of surfing. Some surfing schools have surfing lessons all year round. The instructors at different levels are differently trained so as not to either push you beyond what you do not understand or over emphasize what you already know while emphasizing safety.

Surfing lessons equip you with the best technique to set you off on the right foot. Surfing is not just about getting your board and getting on the water. It is a skill that has to be learned for it to be fun as well as beneficial to the body. Learning the best technique through attending surfing lessons help you harness the body strength and cardiovascular fitness that actual surfing provides.

The essence of surfing schools is the all round way in which they prepare the surfers. There are essentials about the
dangers of the ocean and how best to keep safe as well as how to choose the best surfing spots so as not to put yourself at risk. The lessons will take you through the nitty-gritty of how to select the best board to suit the level at
which you are as well as your physique. Starters basically are taught on selecting boards that are easier to paddle, ride and stand on.

The best thing about going to actual surfing lessons is that you will get to know about things like surfing
etiquette. Things like respecting other riders, sharing surfs optimally, no surf zones, how to handle collisions effectively and also boundaries where other people’s equipment is concerned.

By the end of your course you will be well versed in reading the ocean environment for rips and changes in water
color and weather patterns so as to avoid injury. Different levels are taught on the safest distances to keep while enjoying their surfs.

As you plan to enroll for these very required surf lessons always remember that surfing is fun, relaxing and helps
keep you fit and stress free. The cost of enrolling for its lessons is necessitated by the untamed dangers of the ocean and the need to effectively learn how to make the best of this water sport. Enroll today. Be a knowledgeable surfer.

Simply fill out the contact form, email, or give us a call at 741-969-3959!

Huntington Beach Surf Lessons Farewell to Alex Gray